Journals: Week 3 (April 30-May 6,
2007)
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DAY 15: Monday, April 30, 2007
(DeFuniak Springs, FL)
As you can see, it's not always easy to
keep up with this website, especially when we're visiting people we know. As it
happens, we have spent the last five days visiting family and friends in central and south
Florida. The first two weeks of our trip have had a specific destination in mind,
specifically my friend Dave's wedding in Miami (Coconut Grove, to be exact) this past
Saturday. It was a very nice wedding, and Elena and I had a very nice time, though
we have no pictures to prove it! (If anyone reading this would like to send me a
nice picture of Dave and his new bride, Erica, I would love to post one on our
site.) Elena was quite impressed with palm trees, as you can see by the picture
here. Surprisingly (or not), we have taken very few pictures in the past five days -
probably because we were seeing people and places we know rather than those we don't.
Of course, we appreciate and thank our
gracious hosts over the last few days: my mom and Barry, my grandparents, and my cousin
Brian and Jen, all of whom shared their homes, tasty meals, and the all-important laundry
services (thanks mom!). Elena and I are still trying to get a system going as we
continue to strive to take the least amount of bags into our nightly dwellings. (As
evidenced from the picture in the photo gallery, our system still needs some further
tweaking!)
Today was our longest travel day yet,
about 450 miles. We crossed most of Florida's panhandle going west and crossed over
the time barrier into the Central Time Zone, turning our clocks back one hour.
We were in search of a place called Watercolor, FL, a beautiful beach area with an 18-mile
bike path, recommended by Jen (thanks!). After a few wrong turns (Watercolor wasn't
on our GPS), we found the area and decided to camp - yes we were finally going to
camp! Unfortunately, the campsite we went to was booked - until September! After
calling a few other local campsites and getting the same response, we thought it might be
a good idea to make reservations going forward (you think?!). Apparently, Watercolor
and the surrounding beach areas are quite posh: we called the Watercolor Inn to see if
they had a room available for the night, which they did. Unfortunately, the $450
price tag (yes, that's a 4-5-0) was just a tad out of our price range. So we
drove back north a bit and found the America's Best Value Inn, which we found, not
surprisingly, to be the best value (short of staying with a relative, that is!). Not
only that, but as a valued customer at this inn, we received a 10% discount at our
favorite steak and seafood restaurant next door, McLain's Family Steak House. Now
THAT'S value!
Tomorrow we're planning on going back to
Watercolor to ride our bikes along the path. Then we'll likely camp somewhere - we
know there's a place in Pensacola that has sites available, though we may decide to press
on. The couple we met at the Old Logging Railroad (on the Blue Ridge Parkway in
Virginia) mentioned a music festival in Memphis - the Beale Street Music Festival (http://memphisinmay.org/bsmf.htm), which
happens to be this coming weekend. If you look at the lineup of musical talent,
you'll see why we would like to try to make it up there for this festival, despite being a
little out of the way. (I guess when you're touring the whole country, nothing
is truly out of the way!) Guess you'll find out when we do. Until then... ~J
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DAY 17: Wednesday, May 2, 2007
(Pensacola, FL)
For the past two days we have been
CAMPING!!! in Pensacola, FL. That's right, people...I said camping! We found a
lovely site at Big Lagoon State Park to pitch our tent and settle in. As soon as we
arrived in Pensacola, we discovered it is home to the Blue Angels precision flying
team. Undoubtedly you heard about the recent air show tragedy where one of the Blue
Angels pilot died during the performance...well the Angels are still flying and have been
practicing their astonishing drills all week, with only five jets. We saw them
climbing and diving in the distance and decided to pull over into a Wal-Mart parking lot
(how convenient for Jonathan!!) and watch them practice a few miles away. What we
got was an up close, VIP, front row viewing at our own personal Blue Angels air
show. They screamed right over head, rocking and rolling in perfect precision.
They are louder than anything and even faster than that! We shot some hopefully
terrific video and digital photos of them and just hung out in amazement until they
flew back to their base. We were able to hear and see them the entire time we
camped- they even buzzed us while we were at the beach yesterday! What a great
experience.
We spent the first day of camping
setting everything up, then exploring the park, the lagoon, and making friends with locals
and wildlife. We were a little freaked out when we noticed a sign that read
"Alligators are present in the park". Thinking (or perhaps hoping) we
wouldn't run into any, we actually DID come across an alligator on our way back from a
swim in the lagoon. Some locals told us this 5.5 foot gator is a regular in the
creek and makes daily appearances in the same spot at 8:30 am and 5:00 pm every day hoping
for handouts. We did NOT give him any handouts, since the signs said not to feed the
alligators- lest they become fearless around people, and thus more dangerous. We did
take some nice pictures though, and discussed photography with these nice folks who often
take photos of the bogs and lagoons in the area for local photo competitions.
Afterward, we set up a fire for some
home cooking (canned soup and s'mores) and noticed we had another wild friend: a very
sneaky squirrel who is not at all afraid of people and will come right up to your table to
try
to steal a morsel. He got off with a grape and hounded us during every meal the rest
of our stay. Very cute, but a little too comfortable if you know what I mean.
The whole area is teaming with wildlife including many species of birds: we saw red-winged
black birds, mocking birds, cardinals, many types of sea gulls, great blue herons, and
even the majestic ospreys which are nesting right now. The ospreys build their giant
nest in the tallest trees and guard them all day. We got some great shots of these
birds, who look a lot like eagles! We also met some nice lizards, snakes, a very
brave raccoon last night, and made friends with some hermits (Crabs, that is!!).
Our second day we spent the morning
making a reservation for our next camp site, and then headed to the beach for some fun in
the sun. We took a dip again in the lagoon, watched the Blue Angels doing their
thing, then decided to head to "Flounders" (a local restaurant about 15 miles
away which came highly recommended by Jonathan's cousin-in-law, Jen). Unfortunately
we had no idea how gigantic the portions would be so we totally over-ordered. Some
shrimp died in vain, but the ones we ate were quite tasty! (Thanks for the
suggestion, Jen!) We had time for a walk on the pier before heading back and making
another camp fire, complete with s'mores and some tunes from the Ipod before turning in.
This morning, Jonathan and I took a
delicious bike ride around the park, and did some "birding". We captured
some ospreys, cardinals and mocking birds with the camera and got some nice shots I hope
you'll enjoy. Today we'll be mostly driving- heading to Meridian, Mississippi for an
overnight stay at a KOA campground, and then heading to Memphis Tennessee for the next
three days to enjoy a great music festival on Beale Street. It sounds like lots of
really amazing bands are going to be there, and we are super excited. We should have
lots more action for you after this weekend (although we aren't allowed to bring a camera
into the music festival).
Jonathan and I wanted to be sure we
thank the folks who loaned us some camping equipment- ensuring a much more comfortable
experience. So special thanks go out to Marsha and Elliot for their retro Coleman
stove, to Lisa Brophy and family for the queen size inflatable mattress!!!, and my brother
Chris for his camping gear (especially the tarp which has been most useful). Enjoy
the pictures from our first camping experience, and take care!! ~E
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DAY 18: Thursday, May 3, 2007 (Magee,
MS)
Well, we didn't quite make it to our
next campsite in Meridian, MS as planned. Instead, we're at the Budget Inn in Magee,
Mississippi. Elena has been experiencing varying degrees of back pain the past two
days, and we happened to be in Magee when sitting in the van got to be too much for
her. (Not that I was altogether disappointed at not camping for a third night in a
row; while I have a distinct distaste for bugs, be they crawling or flying, they seem to
have an intense love for me.) As it is, there are currently tornado warnings
here in Mississippi, so it's probably just as well we're indoors tonight. We do have
our tickets for the Beale Street Music Festival in Memphis that starts tomorrow, so we'll
be headed there tomorrow for sure. Until then... ~J
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DAY 20: Saturday, May 5, 2007 (Memphis,
tn)
Friday we drove all day through the
incredibly long state of Mississippi. And although we stayed one night in Magee, MS,
we really didn't explore the state (my birth state!!) much- mainly because we had a music
festival to get to!! We arrived at our "home" for the next three days (The
Days Inn in Oakland, TN- about 35 miles from Memphis) around 2pm. We unpacked some
things and headed straight to downtown Memphis to the "Memphis in May Music
Festival" which is in Tom Lee Park, right off of famous Beale Street and along side the
Mississippi River. We heard about this festival in Virginia from a couple of New
Englanders who recommended we check it out- and we're sure glad we did! The festival
lasts for three days and includes performances by 60 bands/musicians- some very well
known: The Allman Brothers, George Thorogood, Steely Dan, Sum 41, John Legend, Barenaked
Ladies, Guster, Edwin McCain, Daughtry (from American Idol), Counting Crows, Corrine
Bailey Rae, Jerry Lee Lewis, and others we had never heard of but have really enjoyed so
far (especially John Butler Trio, which you must check out if you've never heard
them. They have a guitarist/lead singer, drummer and bassist. Their lyrics and
energy are very positive, and their sound is something like Dave Mathews Band mixed with
Sublime- very groovy). While hanging out in line the first day (we got there way
early) we met some folks who we'd run into later at the festival: Bobby and Liz and their
friend Kristy. Liz asked me if I would braid her hair for her, and we all ended up
talking until we got into the festival. Our new friends had some great advice and
suggestions for us regarding the festival: "pace yourselves!", sightseeing:
"definitely go with the platinum package at Graceland so you can see Elvis' car
collections and airplanes," and traveling through nearby states: "avoid New
Orleans right now- it can be dangerous, but definitely go to Little Rock and travel
through the Ozark Mountains".
The first night of the festival we were
pretty wiped out from a long day of driving, but we stayed in the park long enough to walk
back and forth between three giant stages and a Blues tent. We mostly listened to
bands I'd never heard of before including: Plain White T's (a really good, young alt-rock
band), The Derek Trucks Band (kind of a country rock band), North Mississippi Allstars (a
local bluesy band), Popa Chubby (a very bluesy and aptly named chubby guitarist), Chevelle
(a harder, metal band), Sum 41 (a more well known hard rock/metal band), the legendary
Jerry Lee Lewis (we missed Great Balls of Fire! Can you believe it??) and Gov't Mule
(a good rock band). We were totally exhausted so we ended up leaving before The
Allman Brothers came out, but we knew we had two more days of fun ahead- so we took Bobby
and Liz's advice and decided to pace ourselves.
Saturday we were quite ambitious and
decided to tour Graceland before heading back to the festival. (Do I need to mention
here that we stopped at Wal-Mart first for some "necessities??" I didn't
think so.) Again, we took Bobby and Liz's advice and went with the platinum package
at Graceland, which offers an audio guided walking tour through Elvis' mansion, including
the main house, a trophy room, a racquetball room, a game area (for all his go-carts, golf
carts, snow mobiles, target shooting, horse riding, football playing, etc.- that Elvis was
QUITE the funster!), and a meditation garden where Elvis is buried with his grandmother,
parents and twin brother (who died at birth). We visited several museums exhibiting
his car collection, his airplanes (the decked out Lisa Marie- fully equipped with a
lounge, a master bedroom and half bath, seat belt buckles made of real gold and a dining
room -of course!), and a museum dedicated to all of his bedazzled costumes. Touring
Graceland was like being in a time warp- the mansion is completely covered with all of
Elvis' favorite things, including: stained glass peacocks, huge crystal chandeliers, blue
velvet couches with gold lightening bolts on the walls, mirrored walls, green shag carpet
on the floors, walls and ceiling!, and other delightful 60's "artifacts".
After the tour, it was time to get downtown for some more music!
When we got to the festival we planned
to head to the blues tent, but we were caught by surprise by the John Butler Trio who was
playing on the first stage. The lead guitarist was picking away (as the fluorescent
pink sun set over the Mississippi River), creating a Celtic/Australian/reggae/folk sound
that you've got to hear for yourself- the kind of guitar playing that sounds like multiple
guitars being played at once, but you can see there's only one. Jonathan and I were
very impressed and agreed they are our new favorite band. You can check them out
online at www.johnbutlertrio.com. Afterward
we headed over to the stage on the far end of the park to listen to Kenny Wayne Shepherd,
and we ran into our friends Bobby, Liz and Kristy from Friday (which was crazy because
there were probably close to, if not over, 100,000 people in the park!). We hung out
with them and talked about our experiences at the festival, took some pictures, told them
about our website, and just chilled. We went with them to the George Thorogood show
(just as you would expect- buh-buh-buh-buh-buh baaad...bad to the bone!) and then ended
the evening with my brother Chris' favorite- Steely Dan! (I made a quick call to him on my
cell phone so he could hear a little part of "Hey 19"). What can I
say? They still got it! All in all, I can report this has been a great
experience. The live music is really incredible, and the festival is packed with
music lovers of all kinds.
However, as great as the festival has
been so far, as with most things, there have been a few downsides: 1) Porto-potties (I
tried four times yesterday but just couldn't stand it, so I held it until Jonathan took me
to the nearest Taco Bell); 2) too few garbage cans (you have to steer through a sea of
cans, bottles, cups, and plates, and the few garbage cans that exist end up looking like a
fountain of garbage); 3) more beer and cigarettes than water and fresh air; 4) drunk
people who walk on your towel while you're sitting and minding your own business (at
times, it seemed like the festival was more about drinking than the music to those in
attendance). Although Jonathan and I may not be able to keep up with all the beer
drinking, cigarette smoking, gyrating college kids- we are pacing ourselves and seeing as
many performers as we can. We're really excited about tonight's lineup, especially
the Counting Crows. Jonathan will tell you all about it in the next entry.
Take care... ~E
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DAY 21: Sunday, May 6, 2007 (Memphis,
tn)
Since our friend Matt introduced us to
"The Secret" last October or so, it seems that it comes up on an almost daily
basis for Elena and me, in our conversations, in our ways of thinking, and, as much as we
remember to do it, in our daily actions. (If you're not familiar with it, the
simplified gist of the Secret is this: "What we think about becomes our
reality." We now often attribute "coincidences" to the Secret,
sometimes looking at them with awe, though more and more looking at them with a simple,
"of course." Of course, how do we REALLY know if the universe is truly
being altered by our thoughts? Though some researches are trying to quantify this
more scientifically (and succeeding if you listen to them!), to us laypeople, it may just
come down to faith - you either believe it or you don't.
I bring this up now because of something that
happened yesterday that seems to fit the Secret way of thinking/living (though these
"coincidences" continue to happen on a relatively frequent basis). As
Elena wrote yesterday, we walked into the music festival the day before to the new (to us)
and wonderful sounds of John Butler picking away at his acoustic guitar for a
ten-minute-or-so instrumental, as he also used his foot to keep the beat with a bass drum
(or an electric version of it - it was hard to see from where we were standing). It
was the kind of beat and sound that moved through your body (at least mine anyway).
It was really something to listen to. The rest of the trio came out after that, and
their music, lyrics, and harmonies helped make them "our new favorite band!" -
and as I write this on Monday morning with the entire festival behind us, they were the
highlight of the festival for me. (Though I'd rather not make comparisons to others,
since I think it may minimize John Butler Trio's own uniqueness and style, it may give you
a little sense of their sound: I would liken them to Dave Mathews Band mixed with Sublime,
if that gives you an idea.)
So yesterday morning, actually before Elena wrote
her entry of the previous days' events, we had checked out John Butler Trio's website to
learn more about them, and watched a video clip of one of their songs. We then
headed to the festival for our final day of music. We decided to have dinner on
Beale Street, and ended up at the King's Palace Cafe (where I had some of their
"Championship Gumbo, Two Years Running!" - it was the first time I ever tasted
gumbo, so all I can tell you is that I liked it). If you've never been to Beale
Street during the Memphis in May Festival, then you may not know that Beale Street is
packed with people drinking, smoking, partying, having a good time, and so forth.
The street is blocked off to cars. In the middle of the street, sometimes walking,
sometimes just congregating, there are evangelists preaching the evils of all of the
drinking, smoking, partying, etc. going on all around them. From an outsider's
perspective (i.e., ours), the scene seems to go from one extreme to the other.
Anyway, as we were leaving the restaurant, I
noticed as I looked outside the restaurant window, that there were a couple of children holding
signs about the future that awaits the partiers (this is a "G-rated" version of
what the signs actually said!). Of course, I thought, "That would be an
interesting picture." As I'm thinking this, I noticed that someone else is
taking a picture of what I want to take a picture of. And who, might you ask, was
taking this picture? None other than John Butler himself! So I run outside
with my camera, trying to be subtle (but probably being more like a rhino in a china
shop), and started taking a few pictures of John as he was sharing his own digital
pictures with his wife (they were with their young daughter, who was in a stroller).
His wife noticed me taking a picture, pointed me out to John, then asked Elena and I if we
wanted her to take our picture with John. Um, how about, "Yes
please!" John was very gracious as we complimented his performance from the
previous day and thanked him for taking his picture with us. Elena commented that
he's not quite famous enough to be bombarded by fans (except by us!) and can still walk
down the street relatively freely, though this may not last too much longer if more people
start experiencing his talent.
So that's the Secret story. What are the
odds that the lead singer of my favorite performance of the festival was walking down the
street in front of the very restaurant we were in, at the exact time we were leaving the
restaurant. So many events had to occur in the universe for this to happen. So
did they all happen because were we putting something "out there" to the
universe, or was it just a strange and terrific coincidence? Hmmm...
Once we got to the festival, we were able to see
Edwin McCain, Barenaked Ladies, Corrine Bailey Rae, Counting Crows, and a few songs from
John Legend. Pretty terrific lineup, even if our legs were weary from walking back
and forth from stage to stage - Bobby and Liz's advice was truly warranted: "Pace
yourself!" All in all, Memphis was a good call, though we really only
experienced the festival and Graceland. Music lovers (and beer lovers, of whom I
know a few!) should definitely try to make it to this annual Beale Street Memphis in May
Festival at some point in your lives.
Yesterday we decided we will forgo Nashville and
head directly to a campground in Fort Smith/Alma, Arkansas (northwest of Little
Rock). As we continue to assess and reassess our finances, we know that we will not
be able to do everything there is to do in America, and some things/places will have to be
sacrificed for others. We also know that we've been seeing many cities and towns but
spending little time in each. We plan to start spending more time in fewer
places. We may also start reducing the amount of time spent updating the website so
we can spend more time simply enjoying the moment, wherever we happen to be. Again,
thanks for your emails and support. They are greatly appreciated. We will
continue to update the site and respond to emails when we can. Until then...
~J
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